บ้าน 100 อัน 1000 อย่าง

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woodcarving
Ban roi an phan yang

Chiang Mai museums and galleries

Since Chaing Mai is also a handicraft centre, there are several galleries displaying contemporary pottery, Woodcarving, antiques, and Lanna Art. With more than 800 years of history encompassing Lanna culture, there is plenty to see in Chiang Mai museums.

บ้าน 100 อัน 1000 อย่าง

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How to Begin Woodcarving

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begin woodcarving

How to Begin Woodcarving With a Utility Knife

source: www.wikihow.com

Simple Flower Pattern

1. Choose your pattern. The first part of any woodcarving project is deciding what to carve. There are many places you can find good pattern books, such as hobby shops and the internet, or you can draw your own

2. Choose your wood. There are a lot of different types of wood providing a wide variety of color and grain textures. Some basic woods can be found at your local hardware store, while more exotic woods can be found at hobby shops, specialty wood stores and on the internet. Some woods are better suited for some projects than others. For your first carving, it is best to use a soft wood like pine, bass or soft maple (available at most hardware stores). If you can easily mark the wood with your fingernail, it is probably soft.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Trace the pattern onto wood

3. Trace your pattern. Using a stylus and a piece of carbon paper, which can be found at an office/stationery supply store, trace the pattern you have selected. Try not to move the pattern until it is completely traced, or it may get a little disjointed. It is often helpful to tape the pattern to the wood with small pieces of masking tape.

How to Begin Woodcarving

How to make a stop cut

4. Make a stop cut. Take your utility blade and cut around the outline of the pattern. This prevents unwanted chipping and helps your outlines to look clean.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Left - Cutting the background with blade at shallow angle. Right - Finished background

5. Cut the background. With your blade at a shallow angle, cut the wood around the outline of the pattern. In this case, it would be the petals, stem and leaves.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Cutting the next level of outlines

6. Cut the next level of outlines. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each level of detail. In this case, it would be the flower petals. Continue doing this until all of the lines are cut. Be careful to pay attention to which side of each line you want to cut; you want to cut the side that will appear farther away.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Round sharp edges with utility knife

7. Add detail. Now that the basic outlines are cut, add detail that creates the illusion of depth and texture. For our pattern, this detail includes:

Rounding edges: Lightly cut the corners off the sharp outlines to provide a smooth transition.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Cutting a thumbprint cut with blade at shallow angle, pivoting around tip

Thumbprint type cut in the petals: To add dimension to the otherwise flat petals, cut circular gouges in each one, holding the utility blade at a very shallow angle and pivoting it about the tip. Don’t worry if it looks a little sloppy, as this will be smoothed out later.

Adding levels to the leaves: Cut the portion that is farther back - this gives the illusion of a portion of the leaf folding over itself.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Add veins to the leaves with a stop cut and steep angled cut

Adding veins to the leaves: This requires two cuts per vein, a stop cut and then another cut at a steep angle to create a long thin gouge in the wood.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Sanding creates a smooth uniform surface

8. Sand your piece. Once details are cut, they can be smoothed and cleaned up by using bits of fine grit sand paper to smooth the cut marks so the carving has a uniform surface.

How to Begin Woodcarving

Staining can add dimension and texture

9. Add stain and finish. Adding stain to your piece can add depth and texture, bringing out nuances in the carving that would not be as visible without the stain. Protect the wood from the elements with a varnish or sealer. The extra gloss can also give it a more professional look.

Tips

  • You can download the picture in Step 1 and resize it on your computer so you can easily print it out. You can view a larger version of all the pictures by double clicking on them.
  • Change blades frequently. If carving starts getting harder or your cuts aren’t coming out clean, it is probably because your blade is not sharp. This is the beauty of using a utility blade. With other woodcarving tools you would have to sharpen your blade, but with this you can just swap it out for a new one.
  • Keep a vacuum or small dustpan and broom on hand to keep your work area free of chips and other debris.
  • Be patient, as this is not something that can be done in ten minutes. If something doesn’t look right, just keep working at it as it will probably come out fine.

Warnings

  • Keep your hand out of the way. These are sharp blades; if they can cut wood, they can cut you. Always ask yourself: “What if the blade slips?” Try to keep the hand you use to hold the work piece behind the blade and cut away from yourself so that if you slip, you won’t cut your hand.
  • The other excellent reason to use only a sharp blade is that dull ones require more force to cut. This isn’t a problem in terms of the quality of your work, but of safety: the more pressure you’re exerting, the less control you have if the blade slips. You don’t want to be out of control of something that’s not *quite* razor-sharp but still adequately sharp enough to cut a nice chunk out of you.
  • Wear eye protection. Though it might not seem like woodcarving is an eye hazard, there is a possibility that a blade might break and send a shard into your eye.
  • When applying stain, remain in a well ventilated area. Those fumes are not good for your brain or lungs.

Things You’ll Need

Woodcarving” in Magazine Subscriptions.

Woodcarving” in Books.

Tackling Carving

Posted by สยามไม้แกะสลัก thai woodcarving
woodcarving - birds

Tackling Carving
No need for a ‘carving set’
by Robert L, Butler

woodcarving - birdsFurniture makers have recently become aware of the role of sculpturing in fine woodworking. The sculptured furniture pioneered by Wharton Esherick and recently developed by Robert C. Whitley and others uses carving as a design essential to accent light and shadow, and to form such functional elements as handles and pulls. Some craftsmen have branched out into wood sculpture as art. They start with a background and feeling for wood that trained artists often lack. But for whatever reason, a craftsman who develops an interest in carving is faced with the problem 0f acquiring suitable tools.

Too frequently, thc craftsman new to wood sculpture buys a set of-carving tools that does not meet his needs. He should be guided by the principle he followed in equipping his shop: buy a rudimentary set and add to it as experience and knowledge increase. Since most suppliers of woodcarving tools carry at least 100 shapes and sizes, it is impossible to make specific recommendations without knowing the type, style and scale of carving he plans to do.

But without some guidance, the novice may not know where to begin. l.fcel that sculpture of moderatc size provides a realistic starring point for beginners, especially for craftsmen who intend to sculpture furniture. I have arrived at this opinion through some early false starts and later during five years of reaching woodcarving and sculpture in local adult education courses. Small, intricate carvings do not provide the experience in line, movement and form that can be transferred to sculptured furniture.


For moderate-sized sculpture, I recommend five basic tools, plus a hard Arkansas slip stone to sharpen them. They are
1. a straight gouge with a cross-section curvature of #9, #10. or #11 and 25 to 30 mm. wide
2. a smaller straight
gouge, #5, #6, or #7 and 20 to 25 mm. wide
3. a cylindrical Surform tool
4. a fine-cutting wood rasp
5. a mallet. The first four will total about $30 (1976 prices). The mallet can be turned from any heavy hardwood, such as maple or osage orange, or it could be cur from a branch and its handle roughed out on the band saw. The carver’s mallet is preferable to the carpenter’s mallet which is used to make mortises, because it carries more weight in the head and because its cylindrical form gives the hand only a glancing: blow when it misses the handle of the carving tool. There is much less damage to the knuckles.

Photos show what can be accomplished with four tools. Rough bosting cut was done with a #11 30-mm straight gouge (top) falloued by #5 25-mm straight gouge, which produced a smoother farm (and smaller chips) Cylindrical Suiforru goes even furthet, while a fine, half-round wotid rasp just about completes it (bottom) Area around the bfrd’s beak will be fraisbed with sandpaper of 80 garnet prior to the usual serie of sandings and finishing as desired. The photos show what these tools can do. I began with a #11 gouge for hosting out the rough form of an abstract bird, after hand-sawing a t<p and bottom view. This gouge makes deep cuts and removes excess wood rapidly. At this stage,the form has many valleys and humps. Next, I reduced the extremes of these humps and valleys with a gouge of flatter curvature, the #5. I then smoothed the piece with the Surform tool, which eliminated ridges and. valleys left by the gouges and enabled me to make slight changes in the overall form. Before sandpapering, I used a fine rasp lightly so as not to pull any of the wood fibers. Sculptures may be left unsanded, with the texture and finish of the gouge, or rasped and sanded with. garnet paper in the grit series 80, 120, 200 and polished with 400 or 500-weight wet-dry paper.

By now, it should be evident that sculpturing of moderate-sized pieces can be done well with this set of tools. I am sure that in my own carving, 95% of my time is spent with these five basic tools.

A craftsman who has mastered these tools may discover that he is more interested in smaller carvings. I-ic can then buy tools of smaller sizes and different curvatures, and various types of hand-held knives and rifflers. ‘With these, he can do small animal carvings, caricatures of cowboys and goidminess, or small religious items such as creches.

On the other hand, one may wish to carve much larger objecrs for the yard, foyer or a large room. Such carving is done with larger gouges and hand adres. These tools, along with the basic five~piccc set, can be used for carvings as large as totem poksor fufl~scale sculptures of human form. Some carvers are adept at-using the chain saw f~r oversize and bold pieces.

As in all tool buying and usage, the limit is set only by the person and the work he contemplates. Other available tools include bent gouges, fluters, veiners, short.bent gouges, back-bent gouges and parting tools. The beat gouge is used extensively in free-form bowl carving. Fluters are semicircular in cross section. Vcincrs have u~shaped cross sections and make deep,. continuous.cur lInes. Spoons, front or short-bent gouges—they go by various names—are used for “spooning” wood, making deep, abrupt incisions. The back-bent gouge is the reverse of the short-bent, with the sharpened surface on the opposite edge. It is used to carve intricate flowers, leaves, etc. Parting tools make a v-shaped cut of various depths and angles.

Musical instrument makers use other specialized tools. The macaroni, fluteroni and backeroni gouges are designed for carving violin, viola and cello necks, backs and bellies. Like all carving tools, thesc- may be short-bent, bent, etc. Some experienced woodcarvers even forge, grind and temper their own tools.

As in all craftsmanship, the- ultimate is never achieved. A serious craftsman conchases. to -improve his work and extend his horizons as h treats. Start with the simple set of tools and add to it as you find need and outgrow the limits of those  you have already purchased.

wood carving tools
Wood carving tools set

Author’s basic carving set (right) includet wooden mallet, hard Arkansas slip stone, #11 30-mm gouge, #5 25-mm gouge, fine rasp and cyiredrical Surforns. For smaller, more intricate work (below), add gouges, knives, chip carving tools and rifflers. For bigger work (far below) , there are from bottom to top a #7 35-mm bent or long bent gouge, a #7 50-mm straight gouge, a #7 50-mm fishtail gouge, and an adze with two cutting faces—a gouge and a sm all ax. Carving tools other than straight gouges include (below right) along bent gouge for deep carving. afivus besti for deep incisive cutting, a back bent for carving leaves or petals, and a parting tool for deep angledendcontinuous cuts. Round lens cap thows relative size.

Carving Design Decisions 3

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woodcarving

   Jim Thorpe, the World’s Greatest Athiete, by R.L. Buyer. Inthe unfinished state. this 39 inch high scuits the harsh life of this American Indian and leaves open the option of other finishes to suit the final site.

What surfact finish should be uscd?

   First, the surface carving techruque used. combined with the finishing material, will determine the reflccrive quality of the piece. A smooth surface reflects light and suggests sophistication or formality. A mottled surface absorbs light and can suggest crudcncss or informality. Variations in surface treatment can be used to indicate hard, cold, smooth materials or soft, warm, mortled materials.

   Next, there is the question of no finish versus natural wood color, or painted or gilded finish.

   A raw wood finish, that is, no finish, gives a tough, crude, no-glow appcarance thatworks well in limited circumstances. The theme must require a coarse effect, the site should be protected so the wood doesn’t deteriorate, and there should be good lighting because of rhe poor reflective quality of raw wood.

   NaturaI wood finishes of oil, wax, varnish, etc., arc., are my personal preference, for they offer the greatest variation in treatment, yet still show the wood grain. The choice is both technical and artisric-technical as to the protection desired,artistic as to the darkning and color desired.

   With painted or gilded finishes, wood loses its character and identity. Nevertheless, paint or gild may be nccessary when it’s an outdoor piece that needs good protection. Gild is of course the strongest finish you cah use outdoors. It’s also good esthetically for contemporary pieces that need its high reflective quality and metallic look.

   Paint is used when you need the multiple color to achieve true realism.

   Finish also is affected by the wood carved. Hardwoods usually take a high polish whereas softwoods are more difficult to polish and ue best used for stained, painted, or gilded carvings.

   The choice of finish could also depend on the construction and holding methods used. The dovetailed or pegged legs of a carousel animal would need to be masked by paint, but the appearance of construction joints cauld erihance other subjects. 

woodcarving

"Fetch!" The finish must be appropriate to the style of the carving and can vary in effect for realistic or abstract pieces.

How will the piece be held during carving?

   Ideally, we want to design the piece so that it can be carved with minimum effort and without leaving carving holes or marks rhat must be covered up. Either we design the piece so the holding mechanism is an integral part or so it can be chopped off. An example of the Iatter is a relief carving that can be designed with tabs or other holding devices that can be removed by saw when the carving is completed. This eliminates clamp marks on thc carving. if tabs are impractical, the relief carving can be glued to scrap srock with several intervening layers of newspaper. The scrap block can then be clamped in place during carving and separated easily .from the carving afterwards.

   Carvings in-the-round take special care, especially if. natural finish is to be used. Thc best way is to drill undersize holes where the final mounting wifl go and attach a piece of scrap wood with screws. The scrap wood can then be clamped in place during the carving. Upon completion, rhe scrap wood can be removed and the same holes re-drilled to accommodate the final mounting.

   Commercially available devices such as carver’s screws or work positioners (universal joint devces) can also be used effectively. Carver’s screws can be simulated by gimbal or hanger screws with wirrg nuts. The advantage of these is in the variety of screw lengths available and the added security of more than one screw support..

What sopport is required for the carving?

   The base or mounring design is extremely important.. This should not be left until the end of the project, burshould be considered and designed as an integral portion of the carving itself. The base not only provides the mechanical support and balance for a carving, but also provides the transition from the carving to the surrounding area. A well-designed base will not detract from the carving and sometimes can provide an extension of information about the subject.

   For example, the base for a bird carving can be a formal mahogany stand or can simulate the normal habitat or nesting area of the bird. Sculprurse by Frederic Remingron and Charles Russell integrate the figures into a base that characterize the terrain of the "Old West " Carvings of jumping or swimming subjects can be supported on one or more thin metal support in a way that either simulates the naturl environment or emphasizes the fact that the carving is suspended.

   Development of the base along with the carving can also provide protection during the construction and carving phase. This is especially true of complex carvings such as birds where the legs must fit into precisely drilled holes. The pieces can be removed from the base for carving, then returned to it for protection between work sessions.

   While relief carving can be fitted with hooks or eyes on the back, larger carvings may require mounting-screw holes that should be conceded with carved plugs. Some of the carvings in the round, especially abstract pleces, can make effective use of overhead wlre or chain suspension using ceiling eyebolts or wall-mounted arms.

works of art

 Mother Nature sculpted from life. No two creative. expressive people workink from the same plans will ever produce identical works of art.

Do the answers work together?

   Now that we’ve asked all the key questions, do all the answers work together? Do you have the equipment, materials, and skills needed to produce the designed object? If so, then launch the project. If not, back to the drawing board

Jungle Flowers|wood carving

Posted by สยามไม้แกะสลัก thai woodcarving

Jungle Flowers 2 Box
Wood carving - Jungle Flowers

Product Description

This piece is delicately handcrafted on the island of Bali by Ni Wayan Merdi. It is made of Mahogany wood.

Product Details

* Brand: CraftNetwork
* Dimensions: .0" h x .0" w x .0" l, 1.10 pounds

Features

* Handcarved by Ni Wayan Merdi
* "Shipping from Bali Island, Indonesia within 2 - 4 days."
* Mahogany wood
* "6.6""Diameter x 10.3""H (16.5 Cm x 26.0 Cm)"

 


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